Monday, November 27, 2017

Chiricahua National Monument, Fort Bowie National Historic Site, and Coronado National Memorial, Arizona - Hiking and Sightseeing

The varied landscapes of Arizona continue to amaze me, and this trip was an exceptional example of what the state has to offer.  During the week of Thanksgiving, Roger and I decided to explore Cochise County in far southeast Arizona. The idea began as a suggestion to visit the town of Bisbee, but quickly expanded as I found numerous places to explore beyond the town.  After spending the weekend in Phoenix, Roger and I headed south through Tucson and Willcox before arriving at our first destination, Chiricahua National Monument.  Under sunny skies and mild November temperatures, we set up camp in the Bonita Canyon campground.  The lush, forested canyon was a sharp contrast to the rocky cliffs that surrounded our tidy, comfortable camp.

Roger cooking at camp in Bonita Canyon

Our plan for Monday was to spend the entire day hiking within the monument, famous for its unusual rhyolite rock formations and diverse plant life.  There were numerous trail options, but we decided to hike "The Big Loop" to see the best of what the monument had to offer.  The loop combined several shorter trails for a total of 10 miles, beginning and ending at the Echo Canyon trailhead.  After descending from the nearly empty parking lot, we entered the "Wonderland of Rocks".

Echo Canyon views in Chiricahua National Monument
Chiricahua National Monument rock formations
Upper Rhyolite Canyon in Chiricahua National Monument
Great diversity of plant life in Chiricahua National Monument

The highlight of our hike was passing Big Balanced Rock and exploring the Heart of the Rocks, which had some of the most unusual rock formations within the monument.  Beyond these trails, Inspiration Point offered stunning views of the entire canyon and the expansive Sulfur Springs Valley surrounding Chiricahua National Monument.

Big Balanced Rock
Heart of the Rocks
Heart of the Rocks
View from Inspiration Point in Chiricahua National Monument

We exited the canyon late in the day via the Ed Riggs trail, named after the man who was instrumental in establishing Chiricahua National Monument in 1924.  As the sun was setting, we made our way back to camp to relax for the evening.

Ed Riggs Trail in Chiricahua National Monument

On Tuesday morning, we drove from Chiricahua National Monument to nearby Fort Bowie National Historic Site for a guided tour with a very knowledgeable ranger.  Prior to this trip, I was completely unfamiliar with the history of southeast Arizona and the Apache Wars which took place between 1849 and 1924.  Fort Bowie was constructed in 1862 to secure the region and protect a vital water source. It was abandoned in 1894 following the banishment of the Chiricahua Apaches to Florida and Alabama.

Roger is ready to learn some history
Fort Bowie National Historic Site visitor center
Fort Bowie National Historic Site
Fort Bowie National Historic Site
Fort Bowie National Historic Site
Apache Spring

We still had a couple of hours of daylight left after returning to Chiricahua National Monument, so we drove to the Sugarloaf Mountain trailhead to hike the 1 mile trail to the 7,310 foot summit.  The views of the surrounding monument were excellent from the old fire lookout tower, and despite the cool evening breeze, we decided to wait for the sun to set before hiking down.  It was a wise choice, because the sunset was spectacular and filled the entire sky with neon pink light.

CCC fire watch tower on Sugarloaf Mountain
Chiricahua National Monument from Sugarloaf Mountain
Roger waiting for sunset on Sugarloaf Mountain
Views from Sugarloaf Mountain
Sunset on Sugarloaf Mountain
Sunset in Chiricahua National Monument
Sunset in Chiricahua National Monument

We packed up camp on Wednesday morning and explored the Faraway Ranch Historic District before leaving Chiricahua National Monument.  The historic district was established to preserve homes built by the first settlers in Bonita Canyon during the late 1800s.  These settlers and their descendants promoted visitation to the region, eventually leading to the establishment of Chiricahua National Monument.

Faraway Ranch House
Stafford Cabin

We made our way from Chiricahua National Monument to the mountain town of Bisbee on Wednesday afternoon.  Bisbee has experienced a renaissance, transitioning itself from an old copper mining town to an art community and tourist destination.  After checking in to the Canyon Rose Suites hotel, we explored some of the nearby art galleries and enjoyed several beverages at the Old Bisbee Brewing Company.

Delicious beer at Old Bisbee Brewing Company
Lavender Pit copper mine outside of Bisbee
Bisbee at night

Thanksgiving was a very quiet day in Bisbee and most business were closed for the holiday.  We decided to explore nearby Coronado National Memorial to take advantage of the beautiful weather and do some short hikes.  The memorial was established to commemorate the first expedition into the American Southwest by conquistador Francisco Vásquez de Coronado.  It preserves a "sky island" that is typical of the region, with a variety of plant and animal life taking advantage of the cooler, wetter climate at higher elevations above the surrounding desert.  We explored Coronado Cave, took a drive up to Montezuma Pass, and had a picnic near the visitor center.  Later, we made a quick stop at Our Lady of the Sierras Shrine and the U.S.-Mexican border before returning to Bisbee for Thanksgiving dinner at the Copper Queen Hotel.

Entrance to Coronado National Memorial
Coronado Cave in Coronado National Memorial

Coronado Cave in Coronado National Memorial
Coronado Cave in Coronado National Memorial
Coronado Cave in Coronado National Memorial

Montezuma Pass in Coronado National Memorial
Our Lady of the Sierras Shrine
United States - Mexico border

Before returning to Phoenix on Friday, we took a guided tour of the Copper Queen mine near Bisbee.  While certainly touristy, it was also very informative and fun.  We wrapped up a great week of adventure in Arizona by attending the beautiful Noches de las Luminarias at the Desert Botanical Garden, and hiking to the summit of Piestewa Peak.

Happy miner at the Copper Queen Mine tour
Noches de las Luminarias at the Desert Botanical Garden
Noches de las Luminarias at the Desert Botanical Garden
Noches de las Luminarias at the Desert Botanical Garden
Piestewa Peak
Piestewa Peak
Thanks for an awesome week, Roger!